Serve With Care

Recent food writing has made much ado about how our food travels from the farm to our kitchens. But far less has been written about the journey from the restaurant kitchen to your dining table. While we’re cheerfully indulging in a delicious meal, craning for quick service, and self-righteously contemplating whether our server earned a 15 or 25 percent tip, the restaurant workers have most likely been toiling under poverty level wages, with no benefits, and little chance for promotion.

The restaurant industry in America, one of the fastest growing sectors of our economy, employs 10 million workers. Yet, more than half of those workers live below the federal poverty line for a family of three. At a minimum wage of $2.13 per hour, waiters and waitresses have three times the poverty rate of the rest of the U.S. workforce, according to Restaurant Opportunities Centers United (ROC). And the Bureau of Labor Statistics lists the average hourly wage of restaurant employees (including tips) at approximately half the average wage across all private sector jobs.

The industry sees high levels of occupational segregation. In a recent survey of 4,300 workers by ROC, it found a $4 wage gap between white workers and workers of color, and 73 percent of all workers never received a promotion on the job. Restaurant workplace policies also create a breeding ground for public health crises, as 90 percent of workers surveyed reported having no sick leave. Two-thirds of all workers reported preparing or serving food while sick.

So, while it’s nice to shop locally and buy organic, the ROC has cooked up a dining guide that will help us also dine ethically. The 2012 ROC National Diners’ Guide rates restaurants according to their commitment to respecting their employees and embracing best practices. It gives a High Road rating to those businesses that go above and beyond compliance with current regulations. Additionally, it provides coupons for High-Road restaurants and “tip” cards you can leave at a table at your regular haunts, informing staff and management about worker’s rights and best practices. Using the Restaurants & Institutions Top 400 list, ROC focused on the top 50 highest revenue-grossing restaurants in the industry’s three segments: Quick Serve, Casual, and Fine Dining. Here are some of the best and the worst of the list, all of which have locations in New York or New Jersey.

The Worst

Capital Grille: Workers at this national American fine dining chain have sought and obtained ROC’s help on legal charges regarding discrimination and wage theft. Its policies regarding tipped and non-tipped wages and paid sick days are not known.

Longhorn Steakhouse: This mainstay of highway off-ramps and strip mall parking lots is currently facing legal charges regarding discrimination and wage theft, and offers no paid sick days.

Olive Garden: “When you’re here, you’re family,” goes the slogan for this ubiquitous chain. But apparently, it’s a dysfunctional family. Workers from Olive Garden’s parent company are currently pursuing legal charges regarding discrimination and wage theft. They offer no sick days, only the $2.13/hr minimum tipped wage, and less than poverty wages for non-tipped employees.

Red Lobster: Workers here are also seeking legal recourse for wage theft and discrimination. Besides that, the food is really awful. Don’t believe me? Ask anybody.

Outback Steakhouse: While many restaurants fail to rise above the bare minimum of worker fairness standards, Outback is a particularly painful member of the list. I really do love those bloomin’ onions. But Outback fails to offer living wages, paid sick days, or opportunities for advancement.

The Best

Five Guys Burgers and Fries: While this burger joint fails to pay a living wage for its employees, it does offer paid sick days, opportunities for advancement, and free peanuts while you’re waiting for your order. ROC has rated it a High Road restaurant and gave it a Gold Prize award.

Colors: A Gold Prize winner, this cooperatively operated, affordable restaurant is run by former workers from the restaurant at top of the World Trade Center, who, coincidentally, also formed ROC. They offer living wages, paid sick days, and ample opportunity for advancement.

Craft: This high-dollar chain run by chef Tom Colicchio gets a Gold Prize for its policies, which provide higher than living wages, paid sick days, and opportunity for advancement.

Cowgirl: Moderately priced food inspired by the great state of Texas (hold the Rick Perry platform). Cowgirl is another ROC Gold Prize winner, offering better than living wages for tipped and non-tipped employees, paid sick days, and opportunity to move up.

Crema: A burrito might run you $23, but at least you know the staff was healthy and well compensated at this Mexican/French fusion chain. A Gold Prize winner, Crema also offers better than living wages, paid sick days, and room to grow. Plus, Zagat’s has repeatedly named chef Julietta Ballesteros New York’s #1 Mexican chef.

Take a good look at the full list to see how often we eat our favorite foods cheaply and quickly at the expense of our fellow Americans.

Cari Jackson is Director of Parent Organizing for A Better Balance, the Work and Family Legal Center. She recently contributed a piece to the ACT NOW blog on the fight for paid sick time in New York City. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and son.